Nin's beaches: Scenes and pleasure to be remembered

Nin's beaches are one of its trademarks and an impressive scene remembered by all those who have been here, at least once. It is not surprising that many rate them as among the most beautiful in Croatia, if not in the world.

Nin's beaches total a staggering 8,000 metres in length. The longest and most famous among them is a three-kilometre long beach to which a legend is connected. Tradition has it that the wife of the first Croatian king, Tomislav, was especially attracted by its beauty, and the Royal Family, whenever they officially came to Nin would visit this beach to enjoy a few rare and relaxing moments there. Hence the name Queen's Beach because of its extremely long shallow beach and beauty, families with small children even today take delight. What is interesting is that you should pass over a ten metre long shallow stretch of water in order to reach it. In its vicinity there is the largest known location of medicinal mud in Croatia.

According to the choice of the American Travel Channel, the Queen's Beach is at the top of the most beautiful beaches in the world.

The other Nin beaches such as Ždrijac, Prodorica, Bilotnjak as well as Zaton Holiday Resort are also attractive. The last one, which is located in the tourist settlement Zaton Holiday Resort, has a blue flag as an internationally recognised sign for quality and facilities. The beach is surrounded by children's theme parks, swimming pools and water slides with many restaurants and cafes.

Health coming from nature

Among the gifts of Nature, in which Nin abounds, ceratainly one of the most valuable is the medicinal mud (peloid), located near the long, sandy Queen's Beach. Its effectiveness has been tested by thousands of people, who organised and supervised by a Zadar Health Institution, have used the mud to treat various ailments such as rheumatic diseases, spinal deformities, muscular and the skeletal system problems, female infertility and various skin diseases for decades. The therapy, which usually lasts from ten to twenty days, involves covering the body with the mud, then sunbathing on the sandy beach, then rinsing off the mud with warm sea water. This is done in the morning during July and August. It is useful and pleasant at the same time. Additional swimming and bathing in the warm shallow sea water really works.

Nin's mud was used as long ago as Roman times. This is evidenced by tegulas - round bricks which were used in spas to carry hot air and are now exhibited in the Museum of Nin Antiquities. But this is by no means all: on the so-called Punta, the Liburnian deity Venus Ansotica from the first century was found, which represents the godess of fertility. The assumption is that in this place there was a spa in the prehistoric era.

Plans to build a modern recreational and tourist centre are based on the mud as a natural resource.

The Story of Salt

The story of wealth, singularity and sustainable development

Visitors and experts agree on: the area of Nin and its surroundings is a unique landscape of rare plant and animal species with 8 NATURAL 2000 habitats, 5 endemic, 4 critically endangered, 1 endangered and 5 sensitive plants. This area is of exceptional value to the present day generations as well as those future generations for which it has to be preserved. This is what it is done here profesionally and with no compromise.

The existence of NATURA 2000 habitats is due not only to the uniqueness and features of this area but also to the sustainable development and the awareness of the local people of the importance of nature and the interdependence of biological diversity and tourism. In the Nin lagoon very rare habitats formed: a low muddy and sandy coast with marshy areas containing the distinctive flora and fauna and sand dunes with rare plants. Professionals recognise the ecological value of the Nin habitats so that the plant communities connected with sandy and muddy shores are strictly protected and listed as important habitats in the natural ecological network. The preservation of nature is carried out according to the criteria of the world's largest coordinated network protection areas, NATURA 2000. One thing is certain: Nin's extraordinary natural heritage is an exceptional regional and national attraction and value to the world.

The most important habitats according to the report of biologist Jasenka Topić:
In the wider area of Nin there are low muddy, sandy and rocky shores and rocky grassland and these habitats are not only endangered in Croatia, but in Europe as well. They are, therefore, all in the EU Habitats Directive and are covered by the NATURA 2000 Network.

List of habitats according to the Directive on Habitats of EU (NATURA 2000):
- 1150* Coastal lagoons (*habitats having priority status)
- 1210 Vegetation mainly annual halophita on coasts with organic deposits.
- 1310 Silty and sandy coast covered with species of Salicornia and other annual halophita.
- 1410 Mediterranean salt meadow
- 14120 Mediterranean and thermo-Atlantic species vegetation halophilic bushes (halophilous scrub)
- Sub Mediterranean grasslands of the alliance Molinio-Hordeion secalini (code 6540) hosting endemic and rare plant species.

Endemic, rare and types of plants which are threatened

In the Nin lagoon many rare and endemic kinds of plants can be found. It is interesting that this world is characterised by the nature, primarily the shallow waters and the very high salinity. The most impressive adaptation to the laws of survival is perhaps best illustrated by the plant type (Srcocornia fruticosa) – sometimes called, salicot, sea beans, pickleweed, glasswort or samphire, which grows along the muddy coast in very salty earth, so thickly that it creates fields which are called salt marshes. This plant is fleshy, it has a thick stem which is a real reservoir of water, and small leaves which prevent too much evaporation. Its cellular juice has a high concentration of salt, which enables it to take water from salty deposits (otherwise the plant would lose water ). The large amounts of this kind of plant are a source of food for other kinds, primarily birds such as the herons, waders and grebes.

Endemic, rare and types of plants which are threatened

Allium telmatum, swamp/marsh garlic (endemic)
Chouardia litardieri, Meadow squill (endemic and with Annexe to Directive EU)
Armeria canescens ssp. Dalmatica, Dalmatian Sea Pink (endemic)
Peucedanum coriaceum ssp. Pospichali, Leathery (endemic)
Dianthus ferrugineus ssp. Liburnicus, Liburnian carnation (endemic)
Cyperus capitatus, Savoy galingale (CR)
Elymus farctus, Sand couch (CR)
Saccharum ravennae, Hardy Pampas grass (CR)
Triglochin bulbosa ssp. Barrelieri, Lesser arrowgrass (CR)
Carex extensa, Long-bracted Sedge (EN)
Haynardia cylindrical, Barbgrass (VU)
Hordeum marinum, Sea barley (VU)
Suaeda maritime, Herbaceus Seepweed (VU)
Salsola soda, Prickly Saltwart (VU)
Trifolium resupinatum, Persian clover (VU)

(CR = critically endangered, EN = endangered, VU = vulnerable)

Birds and other wildlife: a story of adaptation and perseverance

The wetland habitat – the salt works are also counted in their artificial shape – are important for the survival of endangered and rare species, especially birds. Over 250 species live here.

The synergetic working of sediment, salinity, the shape of the basin and the lagoon, as well as the specific plant world which grows in the lagoon and salt works –which make living conditions extreme - create a habitat for an interesting and varied animal world adapted to these conditions.

Of the varieties of wetland birds the most well known are: Black-winged Stilt, Kentish Plover, Little Egret and the Kingfisher.

The salt work park is the habitat of a varied plant and animal world. For example, the south –European toothcarp, a fish 6-7 centimetres in length can live in very salty water, the sea and freshwater. The small shrimp Artemia salina (a species of brine shrimp) can adapt excellently to life in very salty water, but can also survive drought too. Interestingly, its eggs have a membrane which protects them from drying out, so that even after 10 years on dry land, as soon as they come into contact with water, the little shrimps hatch. In the fight for survival, life wins...

For bird lovers and birdwatchers, but also for those who love nature, this unique swamp habitat is an entrance to a completely new and special world which will surprise them with its specific features and leave them spellbound by its particular beauty. Man however, takes care of it, making the protection of nature and its conservation the priorities of this area. Educational programmes, guides through the habitats, the construction of informative pathways and the explanation of flora and fauna are your guide into that world and a window into yet another interesting, educative, special Nin story.

A recognisable symbol of Nin is the Church of St Nicholas, located in the field of Prahulje, it is very important for the rulers of the Croatian dynasty and for the history of Croatia and Nin. According to tradition, seven Kings were crowned in Nin, and every crowned ruler rode on horseback to the Chruch of Saint Nicholas, and it was in fact here that he would be presented to the people by the same symbolic ritual-on that mound he would cut with a sword the four corners of the world.

The small church is built on an earthen mound which rises above the wide field, and it is just here on this place that the visitor can experience an unforgettable sunset. In the mound can be found, as yet, unexcavated prehistoric graves. The church s 5.90 m long, 5.70 m wide and 6 m in height (measured from the inside), while the walls are 50 cm thick. Due to the danger from the Turks as an addition to the church, a defence crown with 8 battlements was built in the 16-17th century, which served as a watch tower. The Church of Saint Nicholas is the only preserved example of the early-Romanesque architecture of such form in Dalmatia, which dates from the end of the 11th and the beginning of the 12th century.

The parish Church of St Anselm located in the centre of Nin, was the Nin cathedral during the rule of Croatian Kings and later. It was built in the 6th century and restored during the reign of King Zvonimir in 1070 and through history suffered damage several times and assumed its present-day appearance in the 18th century. On one side of the Bell Tower the lateral chapel of St Marcela called „Our Lady of Zečevo“ leans against the church; the church is from the 15th century and contains the statue of Our Lady with the Divine Child in her arms. The chapel also contains Renaissance work, a tombstone of the Nin Bishop, Juraj Divnić. In 1646, before the Venetian attack, the statue was transferred to Zadar and ten years later returned again to the lateral chapel of the Nin church, where it can be found today. The Mother of God, who is worshipped here as Our Lady of Zečevo is especially celebrated in Nin and this church is its main annual holy place, in the Zadar diocese even today.

The Bell Tower of the parish Church of St Anselm stands to the west of the Church, the one time the cathedral, as a free standing building made from treated stone. Some 30 years ago, great restoration work was done on the Bell Tower and its original forms were discovered. The Bell Tower is considered to have originated in the 13th century and reconstructed in the 17th century.

The Church of the Holy Cross called „the smallest cathedral in the world“ is the most valuable preserved monument of early Croatian religious architecture and one of Nin's symbols. By its position and beauty it dominates the area where it stands. It was built in the 9th century, in the Early Christian period. It is the only religious object in Nin which has remained untouched since its construction to date. It is 7.80 m long, 7.60 m wide, and 8.20 metres in height (inside measures) and the walls are 57cms thick. It was built on the remains of ancient houses which are visible even today. During the reign of Croatian Kings it served as a Court chapel for the nearby Duke's Court. A number of medieval graves were discovered around the church.

This small church, thanks to the position of its windows and the angle of the fall of light is a kind of calendar, and according to the sun 's rays, the exact date of the equinox and solstice can be determined, which on the first day of summer is the start of an interesting event called „The Festival of Sun and Light“.

Spellbound by its beauty, the famous English architect Thomas Jackson, called it „the smallest cathedral in the world“.

The Church of St Ambrose from the 13th century is a beautiful single-nave church with Romanesque-Gothic characteristics. It is located near the Upper City Gate where once the Benedictine Monastery of St Ambrose stood, whose original construction was mentioned as early as 941. The church got its present-day look when it was renovated in 1992.

The front side of the Church has characteristics of Romanesque architecture with a single entrance portal. Above the portal there is an opening in the form of a cross and above it a narrow Romanesque window.

The single-nave area was vaulted by a semi-cylindrical ceiling of tufa (a variety of limestone), and from the interior side it is reinforced by two belts. The remains in its foundation bear witness that the church had a semi-circular apse. The present-day rectangular apse 5 x 4 metres in size was built later. In the 15th century the Church of St Ambrose was renovated and the church area widened. It obtained its present-day form by being renovated again in 1992. The church is used for celebrating the Mass, and because it is very acoustic, also for occasional concerts.

The Baptismal Font of Duke Višeslav the first Croatian Duke who reigned around 800 is one of the most important monuments of church furnishing. This hexagonal stone vessel is witness to the time when Croats were Christianised, and during the Christianisation worshippers were baptised in it. The replica, can be found in the Museum of Nin Antiquities while the original is kept in the Museum of Croatian Archeological Monuments in Split.

Around the edge of the six-sided Baptismal Font, there is an inscription which reads: „This font receives the weak to enlighten them. Here they are purged of their sins which they received from their first parent, in order to become Christians, salutary confessing the Eternal Trinity. This work was skilfully made by priest John at the time of Duke Višeslav, out of piety but to honour Saint John the Baptist, to mediate for him and his protégé“. On the font there is carved cross with a three strand plait which suggests the symbolism of the Resurrection.

The Bishop of Nin, one of the most prominent bishops of Nin was a strong advocate of the old folk alphabet, glagolitic and the old Slavonic language. The oldest literary and historical monuments of this region were written in glagolitic script which was obvious evidence of ancient culture and the awereness of national identity and patriotism. The historian Kerubin Šegvić wrote about this in 1925: „Among the cultural advantages which the Croatian people can take pride in is the fact that they have their own national script. Every nation upon being baptised and entering Christianity would immediately receive the Holy Books translated into their language along with the clergy who used it. When they were made Christian and gave a written promise to the Roman Pope to be at peace with the surrounding nations, the Croats were supposed to get, and got, holy liturgical books, their own clergy and their own Bishop of Nin in the 9th - 10th century. Glagolitic is the script in which our oldest literary and historical monuments were written. The Croats proudly point their finger to these monuments which are evidence of their ancient culture and resistant strength.“

Glagolitic records from the 20th century can be seen in Nin on the monument of Duke Branimir and on the fountain cover in front of the Church of St Anselm (Asel).

The historical story of Nin is the story of prosperity based on salt as well as its long maritime tradition, together with recognisable boats called Condura Croatica.

These boats were found at the entrance to the port of Nin in 1966, and taken out of the sea in 1974 when the desalination, conservation and restoration began in Zadar. They sailed at the end of the 11th and the beginning of the 12th century, and is supposed that it was these very boats mentioned by the Emperor Constantin Porfirogenet in the 10th century when he spoke about the old Croatian navy. This is the reason why the boats were called Condura Croatica.

Interestingly, these are the smallest but the most deadly war ships in the world's history, of which the Croats-as we find out from the description of the Byzantine Emperor Porfirogenet –possessed around eighty. They were 7-8 m long, narrow and built in the classical manner, with the ribs and panelling of the boat's starboard connected with wooden and iron nails. In the situation where there were favourable winds, a square sail would be used. They were also used as fast rowing boats.

These boats were made and probably sailed during the reign of the Croatian national Kings, Krešimir IV and Zvonimir. Historical records say that during the reign of King Krešimir IV. Croatia possessed up to 20,000 rowers on Conduras. Some sources also say that King Tomislav, in Nin alone had 15,000 rowers ready on Conduras.

The discovered Condura Croatica, is kept today in the Museum of Nin Antiquites in a special pavillion, and a replica is exhibited in the sea near the lower city bridge. But that is not all-in the same museum a copy of part of the boat Serilia Liburnica from the 1st century can be seen, exactly the same as the one found in the ancient port of old Nin (Aenona), in present day Zaton Holiday Resort.

However, in order to visualise the appearance of these historical boats, it is not necessary to go to museums, it is enough just to look at the shallow Nin sea where about 100 wooden boats, masterpieces of traditional boat-building, sail, and are called „kaić“, „plazulja“ or „batela“. To see them and sail in them will be an encounter with tradition and pleasure at the same time. Past and present have joined in Nin for you....

If you want to know about an important part of the history of Nin in the shortest possible time, a visit to the Museum of Nin Antiquities is advised, whose exhibits are displayed in seven separate rooms. All the most important historical periods in the development of Nin are encaptured, and each is divided into several themes accompanied by rich archaeological, theme and item guides, reconstructions, models, photographs and ground plans.

The most valuable findings which are kept in the Museum of Nin Antiquities are two original old Croatian boats from the 11th century called Condura Croatica. Next to them there is a copy of part of the boat called Serilia Liburnica from the 1st century and a replica of the Baptismal font of Duke Višeslav, as well as many remains of the material culture from Prehistoric, Roman Old Christian and Old Croatian life of Nin.

The wealth of architectural and other heritage of Nin, is the reason for the interest in archaeological excavations in this area which date from long ago, even from 1777 when the first smaller archaeological diggings in this area are mentioned. They reached their climax from the end of the 19th century and during the 20th century the number of exhibits kept increasing and the place of their display changed, until the new permanent exhibition was opened in 1999, and in 2005 it assumed a new conception and organisation, as well as the present-day name.

There are numerous churches in Nin, those which once existed and are preserved to date are a real treasure of valuable artistic items. Part of them are kept in the collection of Church art, the Gold and Silver of the town of Nin, which can be found in a specially prepared area next to the parish Church, the one time Cathedral. There you have the opportunity to see items from the period of the foundation of the diocese of Nin and earlier. The collection also contains exceptionally valuable reliquaries of the heavenly patron saints of St Anselm, St Ambrose and St Marcela from the end of the 8th - 15th century. Also kept here are wood carvings and votive gifts given to Our Lady of Zečevo. The Church treasury „Gold and Silver of the town of Nin“ also contains: a Judas silver coin, the ring of Pope Pio II from the 15th century, the painting of the appearance of Our Lady and other valuable objects.

For some, their natual wealth is gold-for Nin they have salt, a source of existence, but also a traditon which recently was converted into a unique institution and tourist attraction-the Museum of salt. If you want to see a traditional way of salt production, if you are interested in souvenirs from salt, or would like to taste “the flower of salt“, by many called the „caviar of salt“-you are in the right place which will take you to a really special world of the salt pans of Nin, so different from what you have seen, experienced or tasted so far.

The Museum story of salt-whose institutional beginnings came with the opening of the Nin Salt works in 1955-starts with revealing its effects on health and ways of exploitation as well as the tools and equipment which were used in the process. It is possible also here to buy original Croatian salt and to taste the famous “salt flower“-French “Fleur de Sel“, which is evidence of ecological and traditional production and a perfect addition to every meal.

Rich in minerals and positive health effects, “the flower of salt“ is very appreciated and its price can be as much as ten times higher than ordinary salt. Everyone who enjoys good food, will certainly be attracted by the souvenirs of the Museum of Salt, which include products which use salt such as chocolate and biscuits of different flavours which are unique because of using Nin salt, and are limited in supply because of a demanding production.

In the very centre of Nin, on the location of the once Roman forum, the remains of a monumental Roman Temple can be found, the biggest on the eastern coast of the Adriatic Sea. They date from the second half of the 1st century AD., from the reign of the Roman Emperor Vespazian 69-79 AD. His name is found on the inscription carved on the frieze from the facade of the Temple. The ground plan of the Temple shows two parts of the same size, the shrine (cella) on the western side and a porch in front of it on the eastern side. The outside circumference of the building was 33m in length and 23.5m in width. The shrine inside, was divided into three areas, separated one from the other by two columns on each side. Most probably sculptures of deities were placed in it. Entrance to the central area was through a portal from which fragments of the lintel and door post have been preserved. In front of the shrine there is a spacious porch which on its facade from the eastern side, had six fluted columns.

A monumental staircase on the facade led to the podium of the Temple whose foundations can still be seen today. On the Temple there was a Corinthian column which had an original height of 17 metres.

What was life like once upon a time? What was the occupation of the inhabitants of Nin? In the Nin area of Banovac the remains of a large Roman house, with an area of 17x30 metres were found. Together with these remains new insights into the urban life of the then Aenona ''emerged''. This is supported by the discovery of an area of a rare floor mozaic featuring animal, geometrical and plant decorations which have been dated to the 2nd century by conservationists and archaeologists.

Remains say: Nin as far back as the 9th century BC was a strong maritime and trading centre and an important port on the eastern coast of the Adriatic. It was founded by the Illyrian tribe of Liburnians, under the name of Aenona which had an important trading role. The ancient port of old Nin is one of the largest and according to findings the richest port area from that period on the eastern Adriatic. During low tide on the headland called Kremenjača near the tourist settlement of Zaton Holiday Resort the remains of the breakwater and ancient walls from the 1st century BC can be seen.

In the town of rich history and numerous archaeological sites, the treasure heritage which belongs to the history of this area as well as humanity is inexhaustible. Coin collectors-and not only them-are interested in Judas' silver coin, one of the 16 registered examples in Europe. Also famous is, the ancient gate of Nin and stone bridges. It is only possible to reach the old town on the island by crossing one of the two bridges built in the 16th century, or through the preserved Lower and Upper town gates (16th - 18th century). This is the path to investigating the town's sights and numerous valuable monuments from ancient times, the remains of the largest Roman Temple on the eastern coast of the Adriatic from the 1st century, the mozaic from the 2nd century and the remains of residential units from the Roman period around the Church of the Holy Cross in the centre of the town. Another precious sight for the visitor the Early Christian Church of St Andrew in Zaton, then in the old part of Nin, in Branimir Street there are embedded parts of an altar rail in a wall, which lay scattered after the total destruction of Nin; in the middle of Kraljevac Square, there is an original well crown from the 13th century, with the coat-of-arms of the Familyof Šubić of Bribir, in Višeslav Square part of a Corinthian column was placed, not by accident but it was placed by the local people, and is used on the occasion of the procession on the Holiday of Our Lady of Zečevo. Namely, according to tradition the flowers of Our Lady are laid on it and above the flowers the Statue of Our Lady is placed. After the belessing people take the flowers believing them to be miraculous. The Corinthian column is therefore called the rock of Our Lady; and on the historical island the remains of the city walls can be seen. And this by no mean is all-in the area of old Nin, past and present are joined in one story which to all visitors is interesting and whose testimony can be seen not only in books and museums, but also in the streets along which you walk and also the squares where you linger.